Generals of growing Cannabis

Germination

When growing marijuana, the first step is making sure you have the right type of seeds and that the seeds are viable. There are different types of seeds that you can choose from.

Photoperiod seeds – These plants will require the light cycle (photoperiod) to be 12/12. This means that in order for the plant to start to flower the light cycle needs to be 12 hours on and 12 hours off and remain on that light cycle for the entire flowering stage. A lot of the time photoperiod seeds are grown indoors where the grower can easily control the amount of light by using indoor grow lights.

Autoflower seeds – These plants will automatically go into flower in approximately 3-4 weeks no matter how much light is getting a day. These plants do not require the light cycle to be at 12/12 to flower. They normally grow smaller than photoperiod seeds so they are easier to grow in small spaces. They have a rapid harvest but the harvest is normally smaller in size. These plants are sometimes lower in THC and terpenes due to being crossed with hemp to get the autoflowering characteristics.

Feminized seeds – Both the photoperiod and the autoflower seeds can be feminized. This means that they will all be female plants. Feminized seeds normally have a 99% rate or above to be a female plant.

Regular seeds - These seeds will require the same lighting as a photoperiod seed. They can produce both male and female plants.. so if you do not want males you need to keep an eye on them and remove any males as soon as you notice them.

Viability

You want to make sure the seed looks like a seed. If it looks deformed or is not “seed shaped” it is more than likely not viable. The coloration of the seed should range from black to brown to a greyish color. They usually have a mottled or striped pattern on the shell. Avoid seeds that are green, white or cracked. The size of a seed does not really matter. Seeds come in different sizes. For example, indica seeds are usually larger than sativa seeds. One individual plant can even create different sizes of seeds. You can also do what is called the pinch test. You take a seed between your thumb and pointer finger and give it a squeeze, if it does not break it is more than likely viable.

Germination

Once you have determined that the seeds you have are viable, the next step is to germinate the seeds. You want to pick an area that is good for germination.

The environment should preferably be within the temperature range of 70F-90F, 78F is ideal.
Do not have bright lights or UV light on in the area, but ambient light does not seem to bother them.
Continuous moisture is needed.
You can use any type of water when germinating your seeds. Distilled water is the best. You can add a teaspoon of bleach to a cup of water or a tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide to a cup of water and it will sterilize the water if needed.
It is also a good idea to use gloves when doing this so you do not accidentally transfer bacteria to the young seed or tap root.

The germination process can take anywhere from 2-10 days, but usually the tap root starts to sprout after 2-3 days. You need to be very careful when handling these seeds once the tap root has sprouted, the tap root can easily be knocked off and the seed would then not be viable. We like to use a tweezers with rubber on the tips to help with transporting the seed into the growth medium. There are a couple different ways you can choose to germinate your seeds. Here are a couple of examples:

Paper Towel Method

Soak a paper towel with water.
Lay the seed or seeds on half of the paper towel spacing them apart so the tap roots do not run into each other when sprouting. Then cover the seeds with the other half of the paper towel.
Put the paper towel with the seeds in a Tupperware or plastic container and put lid on or put in a sandwich bag and seal it. Then put in the spot you picked for germination.
Check after 48 hours to see if tap root has sprouted, if not, close it back up and check again the next day. Make sure that the paper towel remains moist, you do not want the seed to dry out. Do this until the tap root has sprouted and is approximately 1-2 cm long. Make sure to check every day because once the tap root sprouts, it can grow pretty quickly. It is better to not let the tap root grow longer than 2 inches before planting it or it may have problems with growth.
Once the seed has sprouted to appropriate length, it is time to put it into your growth medium or soil. into a container or potting plant. A lot of people will use solo cups because they work great. You will want to cut some slits into the bottom edges of the solo cup or poke holes so excess water can drain out if needed. You can put it into a 2nd solo cup so that the 2nd cup will catch any water from spilling onto the surface it is sitting on. Make a little hole about knuckle deep to put the seed into and spray a little water into the hole. We do not want the newly sprouted root to come in contact with dry soil, it could kill the young root. The soil or growth medium should be moist but not overly wet. Put the seed in the hole with root facing downward.
Cover the hole up with soil and place under grow lights or in sunlight. Technically, they do not have to grow under lights immediately, but as soon as you see the first sign of green plant growing from soil, it will need to be put under grow lights or sunlight for the plant to continue to grow.

2. Gravity Technique

Soak a paper towel with water.
Lay the seed or seeds on half of the paper towel spacing them apart so the tap roots do not run into each other when sprouting. Then cover the seeds with the other half of the paper towel.
Hang the paper towel with the seeds from the side of a Tupperware or plastic container leaving a little bit of the edge of paper towel hanging out and put lid on. Then put in the spot you picked for germination.
Check after 48 hours to see if tap root has sprouted, if not, close it back up and check again the next day. Make sure that the paper towel remains moist, you do not want the seed to dry out. Do this until the tap root has sprouted and is approximately 1-2 cm long. Make sure to check every day because once the tap root sprouts, it can grow pretty quickly. It is better to not let the tap root grow longer than 2 inches before planting it or it may have problems with growth.
Once the seed has sprouted to appropriate length, it is time to put it into your growth medium or soil into a container or potting plant. A lot of people will use solo cups because they work great. You will want to cut some slits into the bottom edges of the solo cup or poke holes so excess water can drain out if needed. You can put it into a 2nd solo cup so that the 2nd cup will catch any water from spilling onto the surface it is sitting on.. Make a little hole about knuckle deep to put the seed into and spray a little water into the hole. We do not want the newly sprouted root to come in contact with dry soil, it could kill the young root. The soil or growth medium should be moist but not overly wet. Put the seed in hole with root facing downward.
Cover the hole up with soil and place under grow lights or in sunlight. Technically, they do not have to grow under lights immediately, but as soon as you see the first sign of green growing from soil, it will need to be put under grow lights or sunlight for the plant to continue to grow.

3. Soak and Sow Method Using Soil (No Tap Root)

Fill a glass or solo cup with distilled water. Put your seeds into the water and let them soak.
After 12-24 hours, check the seeds. There should be some seeds that have sank to the bottom. This is because the seed has absorbed water to activate their grow system. The seeds that have sunk are ready to be put into their growth medium. You should not let seeds that have sunk to soak longer than 24 hours because that can deprive the seeds of oxygen which leads to rot and mold.
If there are some seeds still floating, a gentle tap on them should make them sink if they are a viable seed. If not, you can continue to soak those for a little while longer to see if the seeds will sink.

You want to get your chosen growth medium (soil or start mix) ready. You want to start with a smaller planter or container, a lot of people will use solo cups because they work great. You will want to cut some slits into the bottom edges of the solo cup or poke holes so excess water can drain out if needed. You can put it into a 2nd solo cup so that the 2nd cup will catch any water from spilling onto the surface it is sitting on.
Make sure your growth medium is moist but not overly wet. Make a little hole about knuckle deep to put the seed into and spray a little water into the hole. We do not want the newly sprouted root to come in contact with dry soil, it could kill the young root. Using a tweezers, to avoid contamination, put seed into hole.
Cover the hole up with soil and place under grow lights or in sunlight. Technically, they do not have to grow under lights immediately, but as soon as you see the first sign of green growing from soil, it will need to be put under grow lights or sunlight for the plant to continue to grow.

4. Soak and Sow Using Rockwool or Stonewool

If you are germinating with either rockwool or stonewool you will need some additional equipment. You will need a seed starter tray, also called humidity domes. This is where you will put the rockwool once the seed is planted in it. It helps to keep the environment in the right conditions for germination to happen. The following are steps on how to germinate using rockwool or stonewall.

Fill a glass or solo cup with distilled water. Put your seeds into the water and let them soak.
After 12-24 hours, check the seeds. There should be some seeds that have sank to the bottom. This is because the seed has absorbed water to activate their grow system. The seeds that have sunk are ready to be put into their growth medium. You should not let seeds that have sunk to soak longer than 24 hours because that can deprive the seeds of oxygen which leads to rot and mold.

If there are some seeds still floating, a gentle tap on them should make them sink if they are a viable seed. If not, you can continue to soak those for a little while longer to see if the seeds will sink.
Preparing the rockwool or stonewool – Rockwool and stonewool have a high PH level. You want to soak the cubes in distilled water with a PH of about 5.5 for 30-60 minutes. Some say up to 3-5 hours to neutralize the higher PH. Soaking the cubes in this lower PH water will make the environment more suitable for cannabis germination.
Take a cube and give it a little squeeze, we want to get out any excess water that may be soaked up.
Each cube has a pre-drilled hole on top to put the seed into. Using a tweezers (rubber tipped works best) to avoid contamination, put the seed into the hole about half an inch deep with pointed end facing down.
Cover hole lightly with a small piece of rockwool fiber to keep the seed in place and maintain moisture. Usually just scraping the top by the hole moves the fibers around so you can cover the hole.
Put cube into starter tray and wait.
In about 2-3 weeks your plant should be ready to be transplanted into its grow medium. The best time to do this is when roots start to visibly grow through the bottom of the rockwool cube, then you know it is ready.
You want the humidity to be about 70-80%, so you can mist the cubes lightly if they start to dry out. Be careful not to mist too much because excess moisture in the cubes can lead to rot or fungal issues.

Vegetative Cycle

The vegetative stage is after the roots, shoots and initial leaves have established themselves. This is usually after about 3-4 weeks in seedling stage. At this stage the plant will start to rapidly grow with the goal to get big and strong. As we all know, watering your plant regularly is essential for your plant to grow. The water should have a PH level range of 6.0-7.0. This will help your plant to absorb up most of the essential nutrients that are required.

The light cycle you use can differ slightly depending on what you want as a grower. Normal light cycle is 18/6 – 18 hours of light and 6 hours of dark. You can also choose to have a 20/4 or even light on 24 hours a day for faster growth. However, giving your plant some dark time gives the plant some rest and allows the roots to do their thing. You want to keep the temperature between 70-84F, but ideally 75-80F is the best for most strains at this stage. The humidity should be between 60-75% during the vegetative stage.

During this stage nutrients will be essential for the plant to grow to its fullest potential. There are three main nutrients called NPK that are needed. These are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. They also will need secondary nutrients like calcium, magnesium and sulfur with a little bit of iron, zinc, boran, and copper. There are pre-made nutrient blends specifically for cannabis from different companies that have all the correct amounts of each nutrient needed for your plant in this stage.

Flower Cycle

The flowering stage is when the flower switches all its energy from growing big to creating flowers. It can take up to 7 days for the hormones to build up and you start to see flowers. Flowering stage can be 6-12 weeks depending on strain, with some sativa stains taking a little bit longer. The average flower time is 8-10 weeks for most strains. In the flower cycle it is important to handle the plant carefully. Rough handling of plant can destroy the delicate trichomes where the resin is produced. You also want to be careful to not contaminate the plant by touching it with dirty hands. Dirt, grease and oils can degrade and damage the plant and flowers. As we all know, watering your plant regularly is essential for your plant to grow. The water should have a PH level range of 6.0-7.0. This will help your plant to absorb most of the essential nutrients that are required.

Light cycle should be at 12/12 which is 12 hours on and 12 hours off. DO NOT let light in during dark hours, the plant can revert back to vegetative stage and/or hermaphrodite the plant. This means that if the plant was female, it can turn male and start to produce seeds instead of flower, also known as hermied plant or a hermie. The temperature range should be about the same as the vegetative stage to start the flowering stage which is between 70-84F, ideally between 75-80F. As you go through the flowering stage it should be lowered to a range of 65-80F. Toward the end of flower the maximum temperature should be 80F. Nighttime temperatures are important. Keeping the difference small at first, 5-6F lower than daytime temperatures. Increasing the difference to about 10F from daytime hours in later flower. This helps plant to grow bigger buds with more potency and terpenes. Humidity should be 60-75% in early flower, then gradually lower it to 50-60% during mid flower. By the time you are in late flower, it should be about 40-50%

During this stage nutrients are essential for the plant to grow the flowers to their full potential. They are basically the same nutrients as in the vegetative stage, just in different levels. Your plant will not need as much nitrogen as it did during the vegetative stage. Too much nitrogen can cause issues with flower development, excessive stretching, among other things. It is still needed in small amounts so the plant can uptake (absorb up through root system) phosphorus. Phosphoros is now the key flowering nutrient. In veg you want nitrogen to be twice as much as phosphorus, but in flower it is the opposite. You want phosphorus to be twice as much as nitrogen. Potassium is also still very important. Other secondary and macronutrients like magnesium, calcium, sulfur, zinc, boron, and iron are also needed. There are pre-made nutrient blends specifically for cannabis from different companies that have all the correct amounts of each nutrient needed for your plant in this stage.

Harvest

When it comes to growing your own cannabis, these last steps of harvest, drying and curing, can be the most crucial. You have spent the time to grow and tend to these plants so you don’t want it to get messed up on the last couple steps. These are the final steps to ensure your end product looks, tastes and smokes good. It is not hard but if not done correctly, you can end up with product that is either moldy, harsh, and loss of flavor and potency.

Harvest can be a very exciting time! Normally a strain takes about 8-10 weeks of flower time before it is ready to be harvested. However, some strains take less or more time than that. Make sure to know what the average is for the strain(s) you are growing to know when you should start really watching for the sweet spot to harvest.

First thing to mention is that cannabis is a hyperaccumulator. This means that whatever is in your soil or growth medium will end up in your plant and flower. The plant tends to uptake (when the roots take up water, nutrients or minerals) and retain everything is can. It will hold onto it in case it needs it in the future. The bad thing is that they will also uptake other things in your soil that you do not necessarily want, like lead from tap water. Or too much iron if there is a lot of iron in your water or soil. If these extra nutrients and/or minerals stay in your plant or flower when you harvest, the results can potentially cause a harsh and not greatest tasting product. A little tip – if you smoke cannabis and the ashes are black, more than likely there are still nutrients or minerals in the flower. If the ashes are gray, it is pretty clean flower. Some people like to flush their plant(s) prior to harvest, but others like to give their plants nutrients until the end. If you are wanting to flush your plant here is what you should do. You want to stop giving your plants any nutrients approximately 2 weeks prior to harvest. Also at about 2 weeks prior to harvest you will want to flush your plant. It is fairly simple, you just give your plant an excess of water to the point that it is running out the bottom of the pot. You can get a TDS meter, EC meter or PPM meter which tells you the total dissolved solids in your water. The PPM of the run off water will probably be between 800-1200 to start with, it can run a little lower or higher depending on type of growth medium, nutrients and water that you are using. Some people like to give a major flush to start, using a few gallons of water to “rinse” out a lot of the excess nutrients/minerals from the soil/growth medium. Checking the run-off every so often until it gets to your desired PPM, the lower the better. Then just give the plant water until harvest to allow it use up any nutrients left in the soil and stored within itself. Others like to flush slower. They will give a light flush every few days until harvest instead of a major one at the start.

The leaves may start to turn a yellow color because the plant now knows that it is near the end of its cycle so it puts everything it has left into the flowers of the plant. So do not be alarmed, this is what you want to happen. Basically the same as the leaves on trees changing color in the fall, it is natural.

Knowing exactly when to harvest can be a little tricky. You want to try to find the “sweet spot” to harvest to get the results you are looking for. This comes with a little experience and time, but here are some tips on what to look for. The trichomes are the key. Trichomes are specialized glandular structures that produce the cannabinoids like THC and CBD along with the terpenes. They actually are the plants defensive mechanisms to help stop animals from eating them and also helps to protect the plant from too much UV light. You will need a magnifying glass or jewelers loupe to see them. There are also apps on most phones that you can download to magnify them. They will be located on the sugar leaves and flower and look like little mushrooms. They tend to mature a little differently so try to look more at the trichomes on the flower instead of the sugar leaves. They start out clear and then turn cloudy or milky color as they mature. Ending in an amber to reddish tint at the end.

When the trichomes are clear it means they are not ready yet.

When the trichomes are cloudy or milky with very little amber that means the effects are usually going to be more energetic, euphoric and uplifting. Some say this is when the plant is at its peak THC level.

When the trichomes are mostly amber, that means you will have a more sedative effects from the flower. What is normally referred to as couch-lock. Nice for pain relief, insomnia and a calming relaxation.

Depending on what you are wanting for your end result, you can choose when to harvest the plant. A lot of growers like to have mostly cloudy with about 10-25% amber. If you want a more sedative effect some will go up to about 40% amber trichomes and some say up to 70% amber trichomes. Generally, the best time is when there are about 20%-30% of amber trichomes. Some like to keep a grow journal to keep track of what they did with the plant throughout the growth cycles and when it was harvested for future reference. They also like to keep track of how the final product came out, its look, flavor, smell, effects, potency, things like that.

Once you have decided to harvest the plant you will need a pruning shears, possibly a larger one depending on how big your plant is. You simply want to cut the whole plant down at the stalk and hang upside down to dry in your dry room. Some prefer to cut off the individual branches and hang them that way instead of the whole plant. Either way works, whatever is easier or better for you and your environment. Try to be a gentle as you can when doing this, the precious trichomes are fragile and can be degraded if handled to rough.

How to Dry Your Flower

Dry Room Parameters - Containment, Cleanliness and Control

When creating a dry room there are parameters that should try to follow. There are three main parameters that a good dry room needs to have. If you follow these parameters, you should have a dry room that works well and helps you optimize your drying process and improve overall yield. Some people just use the tent they were growing in and others will use a closet or a room that is set up for the drying process. You can set up a dry room in just about any space as long as the space allows the three C’s.

The three main parameters are containment, cleanliness and control, also known as the three C’s.

Containment refers to odor control. These odors can travel over one mile from cultivation site, and some people find it very unpleasant. If needed, activated carbon scrubbers, an ozone generator, or an air purifier could work to help alleviate the smell.

Cleanliness is crucial when drying cannabis to avoid any pathogens and/or particles and bacteria transfer from the people handling them. The material used for walls, ceiling and floors should be able to be completely wiped down and disinfected. Rubber gloves can be used to avoid the transfer of bacteria or particles to the flower, which is a common issue.

Control of environment is fundamental to drying and preserving cannabis quality. Temperature and humidity need to be kept at the optimal levels for the flower to dry properly. Using environmental controls like humidifiers, dehumidifiers, air conditioners, and heaters help maintain the climate you want. You will also need fans, aeration is very important to the drying process. The goal is to slow the drying process just enough to prevent mold while preserving the terpene profile and overall flower integrity. Also, cannabis should be dried in the dark or low light levels. Light, especially ultraviolet light will reduce the potency of the flower. Lights should only be on when checking on the flowers and turned off when you leave the room.

Temperature and Humidity

When drying your flower, you are essentially pulling moisture from within the plant to the exterior of the plant. If temperatures are too high, over 70F, the terpenes can start to degrade. If it is too low, you can delay the evaporation of terpenes which can lead to a lower quality product, and it could also cause the risk of getting mold. If humidity is too high you can have mold growth. If it is too low, the flower can dry too fast which results in brittle and less potent buds. A loss of aroma and flavor can also happen which negatively affects the quality.

The temperature and humidity level within the dry room is essential when drying your flower. The ideal level to have temperature is 60F and humidity should be 60%. It should take approximately 10 days to dry. You will often hear the phrase 60 for 60 for 10 when talking about drying. Although, some cultivators will dry at slightly different levels. The basic range for drying is temperature is about 50F-65F and humidity between 50%-60%. This will take about 7-14 days to dry, larger flowers may take longer. You want the moisture of the flower to be about 13%-15% before you want to cure your flowers. You may lose a little more moisture during the curing phase phase and should end up with about 10%-15% after the curing is complete. You can check your moisture level with a wood moisture meter and set it to soft wood. If you do not have a moisture meter a general rule of thumb is if you can bend the branch and it snaps pretty easily, it is ready. If you bend and it does not snap or breaks and is still “stringy”, it needs more time.

Dry Room Wrap Up

You have taken the time, energy and money to grow the best plants that you possibly can. You do not want to mess it up during the last couple steps of the process. Drying can be a more difficult process but if you follow the three C’s, it can be much easier to accomplish. You need to consider how much plant material needs to be dried. That should help with deciding on the amount of space needed for a dry room. Make sure all the walls, ceiling and floors are able to be cleaned, wiped down and disinfected. Have all the appropriate equipment to be able to maintain great environmental control. This includes humidifiers, dehumidifiers, heaters, air conditioners and fans. Make sure you have good odor containment or control if needed because this process almost always produces a lot of odors. Have fans for aeration. You should create both vertical and horizontal airflow but should not directly blow onto the plants because it may cause them to dry too quickly and it can agitate the trichomes. Bigger buds will dry slower than smaller buds. To get them to all dry at basically the same time, you must distribute big buds with little buds evenly, and do not place flowers too close together.

Make sure you are wearing the proper protective gear if needed so you are not passing contaminants to the buds during the drying process. Lastly, no light or a very low level of light if needed. Make sure lights are off when not needed. Stay away from ultraviolet light which can reduce the potency of the buds. Check on your flowers to make sure everything is going the way it should be through-out the process.

Curing Process

After the flower has been dried, if it is not cured, it can have a harsh, green and underdeveloped flavor. This is due to chlorophyll content and certain sugars and starches that still need to be broken down. This is why we need to cure the cannabis. It also improves the potency of the flower.

After trimming the flowers, you want to put them into a container to cure. Most people like to use canning jars because they are airtight and work well. If you can get the colored ones, they are even better at keeping out light. Fill the jar no more than 2/3 of the way full with your trimmed bud. You do not want too much in one jar so the buds do not get smushed and it gives the buds room to breathe. You want the humidity within the jar to stay at about 60-65% so adding a two-way humidity control pack within that range is suggested, usually 62% humidity packs are used. You can also add a mini hygrometer to each jar which will show you the humidity level that is in that jar to make sure, if you would like to.

You want the same basic environment for curing as you did drying. Your temperature should be about 60-65F and the jars should be kept in a dark environment. You want to “burp” the jars twice a day for about 15 minutes to allow gases and excess moisture to escape. You can gradually reduce to once a day, then every other day and after about a month - once a week until curing is done. You will want to cure for 2-8 weeks, the longer the better. The longer it gets to cure, the higher the potency, the better the flavor and aroma, and it is a smoother smoke. This again is a personal choice for the grower. When you are burping the jars, you will want to move the bud around a little bit – give it a gentle shake. We want to make sure that the buds are curing evenly so moving them around a little bit helps. Tip: if you have more than one plant or strain, you may want to get sticker labels so you can write which one is which on the label and stick to jar or cover of jar.

Trimming Your Flower

There are 2 different ways to trim your buds. You can do a wet trim or a dry trim. It is basically a preference of the grower. Obviously if you are going to wet trim (trim right after to cut the plant down), you will not be able to hang your plants to dry. At that point there are things like hanging mesh drying racks where you would put the buds after they are trimmed to hang in a dry room to dry. Tip: if drying on one of these racks, you will want to rotate the buds every so often or they will come out with flatten sides. Either wet or dry, once you cut the bud off of the branch (this is called bucking) you want to cut the leaves from the buds. You want to make sure you get all the big leaves off. How much of the sugar leaves you want to cut off is an individual choice. You do however want to make sure you take out all the larger ones. There are many videos on YouTube that you can watch to see different techniques used to trim your buds.

Trimmed Not Trimmed

You will want to have a few things ready for the trimming process, they are the following:

Trimming scissors
Rubbing alcohol (to clean the scissors)
Rubber gloves (things will get very sticky and you do not want to contaminate your flower)
Tray to trim over, preferably with mesh (to capture stray trichomes – this is called kief. People save it and sprinkle it over the flower before smoking or make hash with it)
Containers to hold leaves and trim if you are going to save them.
Garbage bag for all branches and trimming you do not want to keep.